Proper caster, too little and an I beam axle wants to wander a bit, too much and the steering gets hard as you are actually lifting the weight of the truck when you turn. If you have an axle that Sid did you shouldn't have to worry about the camber unless you hit something but old axles that haven't been checked may need adjustment. Have the alignment checked and set by a competent shop. Still it comes down to check for anything loose. Had one guy wear the center of the tread out in a few thousand miles because he aired the tires up over 40 lbs because he didn't like the looks of them with the correct pressure. guys and especially old farts would pump the radials up to about 45 lbs to make them look like the bias tires they were used to and they didn't handle and rode terrible. That was a battle I fought daily in the early 70's when radials became common. Still along with incorrect caster or worn parts contributing tires can be an issue especially if they are worn on the edges and the surface is more round than flat or if you run excessive air because you think the tires look funny or flat with the correct air. Somewhat like the shoemaker's kids running barefoot as I worked as a front end alignment mechanic (before they were techs) for a lot of years. I never checked the caster but have to believe that I either had negative caster or not near enough even after I added a caster shim. Hate to say it but my truck was a handful with the removed leaves even with all the other pieces in good shape. It's a free drop job and quick and easy but they handle like crap and the ride isn't all that great. I just don't know that you can do it on these trucks for any less time / money than you can if you go to an IFS (which will surpass any stick axle)įrom personal experience with my truck the worse thing you can do handling wise is remove leaves from the front springs to lower the truck. To be fair, you *can* make a stick front end drive pretty well. I'd have to see some real strong improvements with caster & toe adjusted to consider sticking with the solid front end. After that, a sway bar would sure help with body roll - but I think, long term, I'm going to go IFS. Really, they'll just set the toe: but I'll take the caster measurements and use it as a baseline to get to 5* or so with pinion angle shims. Since I'm in it this deep, though, I think I'm going to get it professionally aligned. Steering is vague, ride is rough, not stable at highway speeds. Enough to complete a Dakota IFS install, maybe, or certainly a Crown Victoria or other junkyard IFS. I'm in to the factory style front end for nearly as much as some IFS kits, if I recall correctly $1,000 or so. Gone to the newer style tie rod ends & a solid 7/8" or so tie rod Replaced the kingpins (axle bosses are slightly worn, not ideal) Replaced all the front shackles & bushingsĬonverted to power steering (C10 box outside frame rail)Ĭonverted to power front disc brakes + tapered roller bearings
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |